Travel Diary: Ireland — Look at the Beautiful

Aug 15

Aug 15 Travel Diary: Ireland

The last week in July, my husband and I had the chance to visit Ireland for the wedding of some dear friends. While he has been to visit several times before, for me it was my first visit to the fabled Emerald Isle, which I’ve always wanted to explore. Because of our wedding commitments and work demands, it was a short trip, only five days in duration, however we packed in enough quality time with loved ones, exploring, walks and delicious meals to make the two trans-Atlantic flights totally worthwhile. It didn’t hurt that I blew out my British Airways frequent flyer miles to upgrade us to BUSINESS CLASS on the way back. Don’t get me started on how amazing this is, or you will never shut me up.

In this post, I want to share some of the highlights from our trip, including the best restaurants and hotels at our two stops, the city of Dublin and the village of Enniscorthy in County Wexford. Read on!

Day 1 - Dublin, Ireland

Our itinerary allowed for two and a half days in Dublin, including two nights spent in two different and uniquely beautiful hotels. My research indicated that the weather in Ireland in July tends to be rainy and about 60F./16C, so I was prepared for cool and rain. Instead experienced some sort of miracle whereby it was gorgeously sunny and about 70F during the day, going down to the 50s in the evenings. It only rained on the night of our last day, by which time we were happily and a bit tipsily walking home in the soft drizzle, hand in hand. Honest to God, a bagpiper played “My Heart Will Go On.“ Who needs an umbrella?

We flew into Dublin Airport via London/JFK NYC on a Thursday morning. Our British Airways flight was spent in Premium Economy (AKA World Traveller Plus) and was pretty uncomfortable. While I was eager to sight-see, we were starving and exhausted, so we compromised by having a short walk in the sunshine, a lovely lunch (locally pronounced looooonch) and then a workout, a hot bath and a nap before heading out for dinner and drinks with friends.

Since we were spending Thursday night at The Marker, an ultramodern and quite luxe hotel in the Grand Canal neighborhood, where check-in time was 3pm, I made a 12:30 pm lunch reservations for two at the gorgeous Osteria Lucio, where we enjoyed a couple of rounds of Aperol Spritzes along with the 4 month aged prosciutto with ribbons of juicy Charentais melon, a stunning salmon crudo with avocado, citrus and radish, wholemeal fusilli pasta with roast peppers, Italian sausage and ricotta salata for my husband, and a pasta special with Dublin Bay prawns for me. I highly recommend this spot for loooooonch or dinner, although its location in the cavernous space beneath active train tracks means that our airplane-addled brains shook like Jello-O every 5-10 minutes when the rail cars clattered overhead. What a lovely spot, with good people-watching on offer, as local agency and tech folks gathered to dine in this unique restaurant. Lots of Americans seem to have moved to Dublin and it was strange to hear people with and without the charming local accent.

In fact, as NYC residents and digital marketing professionals, we were delighted to find that we were in the midst of the digital district around the Grand Canal, and dotted throughout the neighborhood were modern mid-rise office towers bearing familiar logos like Facebook, Google, and McCann. Loads of stylish people enjoyed the cafes and afternoon sun, and kayakers paddled by on the jade waters of the canal. Walking west along the tidal River Liffey, which bisects Dublin from east to west, we strolled past modernized factory and industrial real estate which was bustling, with a cosmopolitan, high-tech downtown vibe reminiscent of our own DUMBO area, right here in Brooklyn, NYC, but tinged with the unique beauty of the ancient city as well. Nothing around here is much older than about 250 years, so that’s a really nice thing to marinate in, and we were about to get a whole bunch more!

Lunch devoured, and a nice digestion-encouraging walk enjoyed, we were ready to check in at The Marker. Earlier in the day when we arrived and dropped off our luggage, we were invited to use the beautiful spa locker rooms to freshen up and change out of our airplane clothes. Check-in was a breeze and our bags had already been delivered to our stupendously nice room. The hallways of this hotel are so sleek, minimalist and artfully lit that they will do beautifully as a setting for a Suspiria-esque horror movie someday. I admired the deeeep, soft, whiiiiiite wall to wall carpeting, moody downlighting and darkly paneled walls in the hallway, leading us to our courtyard-view room, which was spacious and high-ceilinged, featuring a massive king-size bed with crisp linens and a black marble bathroom with more deliciously moody lighting under the giant swimming pool of a black marble bathtub. My husband passed out instantly, while I did a quick half-hour of intensive abs (Belly Burn x3 on the Seven App is my go-to for an easy-peasy ab workout/tension reliever.) Once my body and soul had been thusly reunited, I buffed my face clean, slapped on a sheet mask and dived into the hot bath before taking a little nap. The mood lighting, plus the Diptyque Figuier travel candle I lit, and the floor-to-ceiling black decor made me feel like I was floating in a volcanic rock grotto. Amazing. Also, the huge bed turned out to be just as good as the huuuuuge bathtub and by the time my alarm went off at 5:30 pm, we were rested enough to enjoy an hour’s walk through town before dinner.

Speaking of dinner. Friends had recommended The Winding Stair, a local gem of a restaurant in central Dublin, located above an old bookstore with romantic views over the Liffey across the Ha’penny Bridge. The walls are covered in bookshelves stocked with local authors and vast chalkboards displaying the long and interesting wine list. Menu specials change from day to day, but we loved the stunning cured seafood platter, featuring an array of two kinds of salmon, mackerel, smoked oyster pate, pickles, bread and caperberries, as well as the delicate potted crab, classic steak frites, and the duck and the lamb entrees. I don’t think you could go wrong with anything on the menu here and the waiters will charm your socks off. Go!

For dessert, we crossed the Ha’penny Bridge to explore the Temple Bar district and enjoy a wee pint of Guinness at Grogan’s Castle Lounge. There was a moderate local blackout during which everyone chilled in the twilit glow of the Dublin summer night, where the sun doesn’t set til after 10pm. (True fact I learned from the nice ladies at the neighboring table: Ireland has no biting insects, snakes, frogs, snapping turtles or other pests or verminy bugs. I am moving there.)

Long after dark, we walked together back to the Marker, and settled in for a ten-hour snoozle.

Days 2 - 4 - Dublin and Enniscorthy

Day 2 was a half-day in Dublin followed by a half day’s travel to Enniscorthy, our wedding destination. We made the most of the morning by enjoying strong black coffees from the handy Nespresso machine in our room at the Marker, followed by a pleasant walk to Trinity College and a delightful tour of this beautiful historic institution hosted by a charming student in Hogwarts-style robes.

I had made lunch reservations for 12 pm at The Ivy, again based on research and recommendations, and boy were we not disappointed. For starters, this place is spectacularly beautiful and sumptuous, while still feeling fresh and eclectic. Also, Ireland seems to inspire wallpaper genius in its interior decorators. Holy cow. Check the gallery for ten million pictures of prawns, gin and… wallpaper, among other things. In addition, I loved the brass bar, the myriad of beautiful prints, the stunning blend of tones of deep teal, rust, poison green, magenta, gold and cream, and the huge windows that stream light into the room. From the drinks menu we selected two different special G&Ts, one Rosemary Basil and one Pink, plus a prawn cocktail, a heritage tomato and feta salad, a roast half chicken for him and a chicken milanese for me, all from the a la carte menu. The Ivy is open all day and offers brunch on weekends! The drinks and the appetizers were super delicious, fresh and flavorful, and while the chicken dishes were a bit on the dry side, they were super tasty and again very fresh. All the food we enjoyed in Ireland seemed super fresh and more vibrant than what we’re accustomed to at home, even in NYC. This restaurant would have been the highlight of any trip, except that we got so super lucky with the restaurant we dined in on the last night of our stay. But that is getting ahead of myself… Here are some pictures.

After lunch, we met our dear friend, the talented Dublin-based actor Neill Fleming, who invited us to attend a re-enactment of a historic speech made by Pádraig Pearse in August 1915 at the haunting and historic Glasnevin Cemetery. I highly recommend catching a performance - check the schedule for Signature Tours and set aside extra time to walk the grounds and peer at the many interesting gravestones, which are incredibly detailed - some even have the addresses of the former homes of the deceased!

After the performance we hopped into Neill’s car to enjoy a beautiful drive south through the Irish countryside to the town of Enniscorthy, for a weekend wedding at Wilton Castle, a stately and historic home on the banks of the Boro river which is being restored by its adorable owners with lots of love and loads more fabulous wallpaper. We were so grateful for the rides, as it gave us time to talk and reconnect, and because my husband wasn’t keen to take on driving on the left side on the winding Irish roads!

If you happen to visit this region, Wilton Castle is a truly inspiring B&B, and was the venue for the wedding celebrations. Wilton Castle also offers visitors convenient access to the coast, beaches, spas, dining options, and great walking and hiking.

As a setting for a wedding, it astonished us all - the harpist-accompanied ceremony in the castle ruins, overlooking the river and mooing cows, dinner at long table set for 46 in the great hall, and the beautifully lit disco and cocktail bar set up in the ruins where we were led after coffee and cake, for dancing ‘til 2:30 am, followed by a glorious family-style brunch the following morning, at which we stuffed ourselves with vast trays of scones, mountains of clotted cream, gooseberry jam, black pudding, bacon, eggs, country bread, butter and pots and pots of hot coffee. Heaven.

Day 5

Back to Dublin

Following the post-wedding brunch and many group photos and lovely walks on the castle grounds, we piled back into the car and headed north to Dublin for one last afternoon in the city before flying out the following morning. Under a hazy sky, our kind friend dropped us off right in front of the two Georgian townhouses which comprise the Dylan Hotel, our accommodation for the last night of our stay. The photos on the website don’t do the place justice: our room was a tasteful mix of traditional architecture with modern furnishings, with great views over a wide courtyard studded with palm trees centered around a splashing fountain. My only complaint is the more modest bathroom, which while not as stylish as the rest of the room, nevertheless boasted a multi-jetted shower and rain-style shower head, plus toiletries from Replica/Margiela, which of course, I pocketed :)

As for dinner, I had booked a table for two at Rosa Madre and highly anticipated a feast. We had a bit of a mixup in directions and ended up briefly at a nearby restaurant called Terra Madre. Do not go to Terra Madre. It is hard to find, dirty, hot and not at all the same as Rosa Madre. That mistake ended with us fleeing the restaurant while a rude and angry fellow (the owner?) chased us out the door yelling. This is after he shouted at me on the phone and spilled a glass of water on my arm. Thank god I re-checked Open Table, which never steers me wrong! Over the river and up a small hill we found Rosa Madre, where a smiling host greeted us, escorting us past a tank of live local fish and shellfish, up red plush stairs to a velvety red mezzanine where we feasted on a bottle of cold, dry Italian wine, a half dozen each of Dublin Bay and Sicilian Red prawns, a giant mixed crudo tasting, branzino baked in salt for my husband and a plate of heavenly pasta with butter and tomato and local crab for me. Next time we visit Dublin, I will make a point to go back to Rosa Madre because this was one of the very best meals of my life, and that is saying something!

We walked home in the rain, hand in hand, bagpipes played Celine Dion, it was incredibly romantic. The Dylan beckoned. We eventually slept.

The next morning, we said farewell for now to Dublin, but only for now.

Tips:

Never say no to bread and butter in this country. The butter is nothing short of amazing and you do have to get it to your mouth somehow. Anyway you will be walking a lot, so you need the carbs.
Ireland’s power outlets have a standard voltage of 230 V and frequency of 50 Hz so international travelers should be sure to pack at least two suitable adaptors so that you can charge your devices. By which I mean: don’t bring just one for you and your travel partner. Like some people.
Dublin restaurants can be found on (reservations app) Open Table, which makes researching and booking tables everywhere easier, especially when making reservations for trips overseas. Points towards awards certificates or Amazon gift cards add incentive.
The above mentioned Seven App is terrific for travel as all you need is a yoga mat and you can get your body moving anywhere!
This is not new news but Diptyque candles make any hotel room feel cozy and smell like home. Every time I go through Duty Free, I buy a 35g Diptyque travel size candle, and then I use it on my next trip. My personal favorite is Tuberose #christmasiscoming but that seemed kind of heavy for Dublin, hence, the herbal Figuier I selected for this trip. (Don’t forget to pack a lighter or matches or you will be sniffing the box.)
The line to see the Book of Kells in the library at Trinity College was long and we were starving, so we skipped out on the tour. Travesty. I will just have to visit again to see it, right? Anyway, go early or be prepared to wait or visit with the paid tour.
If I had to pick between The Dylan and the Marker, I’d be hard-pressed to choose, as the Marker was so luxurious inside the rooms, particularly that bath, but the Dylan was closer to the city centre, allowing us to enjoy a walk through St. Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square on our way to and from dinner. Both rooms offered incredibly comfortable beds, although the Dylan was a bit sexier and the Marker more minimalist and serene.
If you can swing it, British Airways Business Class is much better than Premium Economy, needless to say. I have never slept better on an airplane, I got port with my post-dinner cheese plate, a champagne menu with my high tea, and the Galleries lounge at Heathrow is as serene and pleasant a spot as I’ve ever enjoyed in an airport. If you can’t manage that, (I had hoarded BA Avios from heaps of business travel to London) I recommend signing up for Priority Pass so that you can enjoy the other option, which is the Aspire Lounge and Spa, for free and without a spa reservation. Eat palatable food, drink free well drinks and watch the planes come and go while you enjoy free wi-fi. It’s not business class, but it’s better than general admission.